The Texan
city’s unofficial motto ‘Keep Austin Weird’ appears on everything from T-shirts
to car bumper stickers, and it’s a mantra adhered to with gusto by the one
million-strong population.
Here, in
this liberal and progressive enclave of one of America’s most conservative
states, all degrees of quirkiness are celebrated. Independent cafes,
restaurants and bars champion over dull, cookie-cutter chains, while bold
entrepreneurs are encouraged to think differently and change the world.
So, what
awaits?
All the
wonderfully familiar Texan cliches abound in its laid-back state capital:
cowboys and ranches, heartfelt Southern hospitality, the aroma of BBQ wafting
down the boulevards, and the sound of live music on almost every street corner.
But there
are surprises, too. Dissected by the Colorado River, Austin is a place of hot
springs, and islands that could pass for the Caribbean.
Here are a
few of the best ways to experience the city…
Take a
breezy bus tour
To tick off
all the main sights and escape the intense Texan sun (temperatures have been
known to exceed 40C in August), book a guided (and air-conditioned) bus tour
with AO Tours.
An
itinerary focusing on the downtown district features the sombre but beautiful
Texas State Cemetery (the final resting place of generals, governors and
congressmen), and the handsome 92-metre-tall State Capitol Building – taller
than its iconic counterpart in the nation’s capital.
Stop to
pose in front of the famous ‘Greetings from Austin’ mural, the city’s most
celebrated piece of street art, on the corner of 1st street. A
two-and-a-half-hour panoramic tour costs from $51.
Kayak
with micro bats
For
something more unusual, take a kayak tour along the Colorado River. Paddle leisurely
beneath Congress Avenue Bridge – also nicknamed Bat Bridge, in reference to the
1.5 million tiny Mexican free-tailed bats that live underneath it. Every
evening between March and November, the bats emerge to feed, creating a
spectacle in the sky. A two-hour tour costs from $59.
Learn
the ropes on a ranch
Sweeping
thick blonde locks from beneath her Stetson, Miss Tina is a tireless taskmaster
when it comes to training novice cowgirls and cowboys at her Lone Star Ranch.
John Wayne
wannabes can try their hands at lassoing, tomahawk throwing and archery, all
under the watchful eye of Miss T – or go horse riding along trails
criss-crossing the ranch’s 600-acres of ravines, meandering streams and open
plains. The working cattle farm is only open to the public by pre-booked
appointment. A two-and-a-half cow class costs $150.
Savour
the supersized dishes
You won’t
go hungry in Austin, where the flavours are as big as the portions. Texas BBQ
is almost a religion in these parts, and there’s no shortage of exceptional
places to sample grilled and smoked meats.
Patient
diners should head to Franklin, the no-frills street-side diner where people
queue for up to three hours for a pulled pork sandwich and slice of pecan pie.
Located in the historic East Side district, it’s only open until everything is
sold out (usually around 2pm). The verdict? It’s well worth the (very long)
wait. Pay around $14 for a sandwich.
Sharing a
border with Mexico inevitably means the city’s culinary scene is heavily
influenced by its neighbour to the south. One of the best places to grab a bite
on the go is Torchy’s (torchystacos.com), food trucks acclaimed for
lip-tingling tacos. Try the trailer park taco with fried chicken, green
chillies, pico de gallo salsa and poblano sauce. Pay around $7 for a taco.
Tap your
feet to terrific tunes
Austin
could easily rival New Orleans or Nashville as America’s capital of live music:
there are around 250 venues, with up to 100 shows often taking place in a
single night.
Broken
Spoke is among the most celebrated ‘honky-tonk’ country music bars, and has
even welcomed legend Dolly Parton. It also offers two-step dancing lessons for
those who want to fit in with the local crowd.
Meanwhile,
Antone’s has been playing the blues since 1975. In that time, everyone
from B.B. King to local hero Willie Nelson have grabbed the mic here. Whether
well-known or up-and-coming, the quality of the musicians is consistently high.
Stock up
on boots and Stetsons
A cowboy
hat is an essential part of the wardrobe in these parts. Sandwiched between
trendy and minimalist boutiques on South Congress Avenue, Allens Boots is a
local institution (just look for the giant red boot outside).
Aisles are
lined with authentic cowboy boots, hats and big buckled belts, each handmade
and the real deal. The friendly staff will have you kitted out and looking
every inch the Texan in no time.