At just 150 kilometers from the Portuguese border, it might be a case of why not check it out?
Getting to Seville couldn't be easier, it takes about an hour and a half (by
car) from the eastern side of the Algarve. The road to Sevilla is an excellent
dual carriageway every step of the way. So, the urban delights of this
historic Andulician beauty are quite doable from the Algarve.
Seville is the
largest city in Southern Spain. It's a city famed for many things, not least of
all the flamboyant, strangely aggressive (yet elegant) flamenco dancing. The
city is also known for its incredible abundance of magnificent architecture.
Seville is a city brimmed full of the most extraordinary history and culture,
all of which add up to make it one of Spain's more intriguing
attractions.
These days
bullfighting has become a controversial activity. However, ‘the Bullring’
(Plaza de Toros) is one of Seville’s most popular sights. The arena is thought
to be one of the finest of its kind in the whole of Spain. It can host over
14,000 spectators with regular fights being held there to this day. If
bullfighting is not your cup of tea, you can still visit the venue during
quieter times. It's a worthwhile exercise because the arena alone is such a
fabulous sight to behold.
Quintessentially Spanish
I personally
believe that quirky culture is a warts and all sort of affair. Let's face it,
whether we personally endorse bullfighting or not, there’s little that embodies
the spirit of Spanish culture more than matadors and the bulls. It's just so
quintessentially Spanish. Walls and alcoves in some of Seville’s tapas bars are
adorned with the heads of some of the bulls that were slain in the arena,
alongside examples of the flamboyant costumes worn by some of Spain's most
legendary matadors.
Seville is
truly a fabulous city of over 1.5 million souls. It's an absolute maelstrom of
vibrant activity which resonates on its many interweaving streets, lively
plazas and shady sun-dappled parks. The city is always emblazoned with fabulous
floral displays with some of the plazas thickly filled with the scent of
jasmine. This is a truly wonderful city and a fantastic place to be.
This region of
Spain can get rather hot at times, so a shady late afternoon stroll along the
banks of the Guadalquivir river might be just the ticket. Visiting the huge and
sublimely ornate Plaza de España with the nearby shady ornamental gardens of The
Parque de María Luisa is an absolute must. I can't help going off for my
mandatory stroll around this magical place each time I visit Seville. It just
puts me into that "I really am in Seville vibe."
Authentic flavours
Talking of
soaking things up. I naturally enjoy soaking up some of the region's
wines and beers as well. After all, it's all part of that all-important process
of "enjoying the authentic flavours of Seville."
A tapas tour
of the old town in areas such as Alameda, Macarena, Nervión, Los Remedios or
Triana will be crammed full of that crucial authenticity factor. But it's wise
not to necessarily expect all the menus to showcase their tasty treats in any
language other than Spanish. This means that a tapas tour can quite swiftly
turn into a bit of an epicurean lottery, unless, that is, you're willing to use
my own personal tactic of stealthily observing what some of Seville’s more
seasoned tapas eaters are ordering. I then replicate the orders that look to be
the most appealing. It works for me! Patatas bravas are always a safe bet but I
don't think I've ever visited any two tapas establishments that share quite the
same sauce recipe. Be careful though, because patatas bravas are quite filling,
so chowing down on those outrageously flavoursome carbs might just spoil your
appetite and scupper your evening's gastronomic ambitions.
One of my
favourite areas of Seville is Plaza Alameda de Hércules. It's often frequented
by students who flock to the bars and eateries each evening. The area comes
alive after dark but it nevertheless retains a convivial and chilled-out
atmosphere. Here, tapas bars often serve some more contemporary fare such as
ceviche or sushi. Of course, there are music venues offering live jazz as well
as the odd burst of traditional flamenco. Gay bars and clubs party on well into
the balmy Andalusian nights which often feel decidedly tropical. Unsurprising
perhaps, because hereabouts temperatures didn't dip much below 25C on the
evenings we spent there.
If time is not
an issue, there's always the option of visiting nearby Jerez to sample some
delicious sherry alongside some more traditional Spanish fayre? You can either
drive or there are daily coach excursions running to Jerez and Cadiz from
Seville.
Jerez
Jerez de la
Frontera (more commonly known simply as Jerez) is a lovely city in the province
of Cadiz. The old town surrounds the Alcázar de Jerez which is a Moorish
fortress. The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art is Jerez's famous
riding school which hosts numerous horse shows as well as boasting a carriage
museum. The city of Jerez is also renowned for flamenco music, dance and sherry
production. The sherry is actually produced in the so-called "Sherry
Triangle" which lies to the west of the city itself.
I was
fortunate enough to call into Jerez during the 2nd week of May whereby I
accidentally stumbled in on the annual Jerez horse festival. This is a highly
vibrant, colourful and lively event that brings the entire city to the González
Hontoria fairground. This is a large area just on the fringes of the city where
there's ample open space to showcase Jerez's finest horseflesh. During the
festival, many of the locals dress for the occasion with both the men and the
women donning their finest traditional Spanish attire. I got the feeling that
this was a celebration of local culture as much as it was a demonstration of
all things equestrian.
You may
discover, as I have done, that a jaunt to seductive Sevilla is well worth the
candle. It's just too tantalisingly close to the Algarve to ignore. There's so
much to see and do when you're out and about sampling Sevilla. If you haven't
done so yet, then it comes highly recommended.
Douglas Hughes is a UK-based writer producing general interest articles ranging from travel pieces to classic motoring.
I'm for the bull
By John from Alentejo on 26 Aug 2022, 19:58