But according to research by digital travel
platform Booking.com, optimistic travellers still plan to get away this year by
being savvy about the destinations they choose, sticking to budgets, holidaying
out of season and making use of clever travel hacks.
One place where your money will go further is the Argentine capital Buenos Aires.
Forever in a state of economic turmoil, the South
American country is currently experiencing one of its worst periods of
inflation. To survive, people juggle a bizarre selection of parallel exchange
rates. Use your foreign bank card or draw out money from an ATM, and you’ll get
the official rate. But if you exchange money using the informal blue dollar,
you’ll get almost double.
Oddly above board, it’s possible to find blue
dollar rates at street-side cambios. Alternatively, transfer money through the
Western Union app for collection at various points throughout the city.
On the downside, you might end up walking around
with wads of – although Western Union will allow you to draw out smaller
amounts from a transferred fund multiple times, without any extra charge.
But play your (bank) cards right, and this is one
the few places where it’s possible to splash out on a budget.
Best breakfast spot: F5 Cantina Atelier Fuerza
When is a croissant not a croissant? When it’s a
medialuna. Typically crescent-shaped (the name means ‘half moon’), these sweet
pastries are a breakfast staple, typically served with dulce de leche (a
dangerously addictive caramel spread made with condensed milk).
There’s fierce competition for the best in the
city, but F5 currently come out top. Similar in shape to the French version,
their medialunas are baked with a sugar water glaze to crisp the shells, so
good there’s no need for any condiments.
Select your own medialunas (around €1 each) from
large metal trays still cooling from the oven, sitting below racks of sourdough
bread. There’s space to sit indoors or outside on a quiet residential pavement.
Head a few doors down to watch bakers prepare goods behind a large glass
window. Jufré 202, Villa Crespo.
The top choice for pizza: Chui
Generally speaking, it’s hard to find a decent
pizza outside Italy. But Argentina is an exception. Throughout the 19th and
20th centuries, thousands of Italian immigrants moved to the country to escape
war and find better economic opportunities. As a result, nearly half the
current population have Italian roots, and olive oil practically runs through
their veins.
Set discreetly behind a side street close to
up-and-coming area Chacarita – a spill-over from trendy Palermo Soho – this
garden of pizza Eden makes some of the best doughy discs in town. Tables are
set between a jungle of ferns and leafy plants in a semi-covered space that’s
larger than most BA restaurants. A clay oven blazes from behind a bar where
chefs prepare dishes remarkably quickly.
As for the pizzas, these are near perfect: a
paper-thin base with a pillowy crust, coated in a ruby sauce with pools of
golden olive oil – costing from around €7. Loyola 1250.
A smart night out: Elena
Eating out in a five-star hotel restaurant usually
requires serious spending power. Not in Buenos Aires. Despite being part of the
elegant Four Seasons hotel in the city’s fancy Recoleta district, Elena serves
an excellent 45-day dry-aged 34oz T-bone Angus steak (serving two) for €28.
Although the prices are remarkably affordable,
there’s nothing cut-price about the interior and service. Curved leather
banquettes and wooden tables are set across two floors, all attended by waiters
in silk waistcoats and jeans. Cooked on the grill, all beef is dry-aged in
house. Of all the cheese dishes available, a melted goat’s provoleta cheese
with apricots is hard to resist. Posadas 1086.
Drink the night away: Floreria Atlantico
A flower shop by day, this pretty bar in Recoleta
reveals its night-time alter-ego when a secret door opens to reveal a basement
speakeasy after dark. Inventive cocktails, which have helped the bar earn a top
five spot in the World’s 50 Best Bars list, are inspired by the diverse
cultural backgrounds of immigrants who came to Buenos Aires in the 1900s.
Anyone who loves negronis is in for a treat; ‘grandpa’s’ selection features
five variations, the most outlandish being La Chofeta, made with Campari,
muscat, pine mushrooms and soil from beach resort Cariló. None will set you
back more than €5 each. The upstairs bar is also open during the day for drinks
and food, with chairs set on a very pleasant pavement in one of the less
traffic-heavy sections of town. Arroyo 872.
Where to stay: Soho Point Suites
Palermo Soho is undoubtedly the best place for an
easy walk to hip cafes, cool boutiques and some of the city’s trendiest
restaurants. A co-working space with short stay apartments, Soho Point Suites
is right in the thick of the action; you can literally be home within minutes
of sipping your last drops of Malbec, then spend the night dreaming of edgy
leather shoes and pretty dresses from local designers on sale in shops next
door.
A fridge and mini kitchen are useful for at-home
breakfasts – although with so many good bakeries and coffee shops on your
doorstep, there’s really no need. Friendly, young staff communicate with guests
via WhatsApp and are happy to store luggage for early arrivals or late flights.