“Let’s get
above the noise,” our enthusiastic guide instructs us as we stand with our eyes
closed, bathing in sunshine in the middle of the farm.
There are a
few chickens scratching around their large coup to my right and pretty purple,
pink and yellow flowers growing to my left.
In the
distance is the sound of trams, cars and the bustle of a city beneath our feet.
We’re seven
storeys above the streets in DakAkker – the largest open-air roof farm in the
Netherlands and one of the biggest in Europe.
The place
epitomises Rotterdam’s forward-thinking approach to their city, which focuses
on making the best use of space while being environmentally friendly.
Aerial
bombardment during the Second World War left most of the city centre flattened.
Its newer
architecture might not be as traditionally pretty as the historical buildings
lining the canals of nearby Amsterdam, but it does leave plenty of space in the
sky on which to build for its growing population – 40,000 were living in the
city centre in 2017, but that is expected to rise to around 60,000 by 2030.
From
systems to catch and recycle rainwater to beehives and solar panels, Rotterdam
wants to put more of its 18.5 square kilometres of mostly empty flat roofs to
good use, says our guide Esther Wienese.
Rotterdam’s
Highline
Work on the
Hofbogenpark – dubbed Rotterdam’s Highline – is due to start in 2024 and when
complete, it will be the longest and narrowest roof park in the Netherlands,
where visitors can stroll in a colourful and fragrant landscape above the city.
But for
now, these are the best ways to see the Dutch city on a high.
Pose on
a pink podium
Until
August 17, the Podium will take people 29 metres above the city via a
scaffolding staircase made up of 143 steps. (There is also a lift, making it
accessible for all.) Sitting atop the Het Nieuwe Instituut, the 600
square-metre space forms a temporary meeting place throughout the summer, playing
host to a jazz festival and the Rotterdam Philharmonic Orchestra.
Its
proximity to The Depot (the world’s first publicly accessible art storage
facility) makes for a great selfie spot, with some of the city’s skyline –
including the neon pink podium – reflected in the stunning mirrored facade.
Entry to the Podium is free unless for specific events. Visit hetnieuweinstituut.nl
See the
city from the rooftops
Esther
Wienese and her colleagues at Inside Rotterdam offer year-round private guided
rooftop tours in English. Take a peek at rooftops normally inaccessible to the
public, such as the top of the Atlanta NH Hotel, which is one of the oldest
rooftop terraces in Rotterdam – built before the Second World War.
From the
rootftop of the St Laurenshuis office building – used by staff from various
firms as a social lunch venue – we get a wonderful view of the only remaining
late Gothic building in Rotterdam, Sint-Laurenskerk church. The bells of the
church, which were badly damaged but survived bombing during the war, ring out
to the tune of Danny Boy as we admire the view.
Also open
to tourists, the Luchtpark (air park) on top of the old Station Hofplein is a
great place to survey the city’s rooftops while perched on one of several
artificial sheep dotted across the grass.
At
weekends, tour groups can climb to the top of the 11-storey Witte Huis
(WhiteHouse), taking in what the guides describe as a “remarkable 360 degree
view” of the city. This pretty 45-metre high building was the first Dutch
skyscraper, and was once Europe’s tallest office building.
A 2.5-hour
tour starts from €32 per person excluding booking fee. Visit
insiderotterdam.com
Get
naturally uplifted at DakAkker
Only fully
accessible to visitors as part of an organised tour, this rooftop farm features
plant pollinating honey bee colonies and ‘worm hotels’ where compost is made.
The venue
claims to have the smartest roof in the Netherlands, due to its ability to
store water according to the weather forecast. If extreme rainfall is expected,
a smartflow control responds by making extra water storage capacity available
24 hours in advance.
If you’re
not part of a tour you can still enjoy a coffee and waffle fries for less than
€10 at DakAkker’s cafe Ted’s All Day Brunch. On Fridays, come to watch
volunteers harvest mint, beetroot, rhubarb and edible flowers.
A group of
up to 30 people can enjoy a 45-minute tour for €125. Visit dakakker.nl for more
information
Eat in a
sky-high forest
Surrounded
by a forest, planted on the top floor of The Depot, Renilde restaurant promises
wild dining 34.5 metres above ground.
Guests are
served a surprise menu of at least four courses accompanied by wine pairings,
with a guarantee that ingredients will be seasonal, fresh and generally
locally-supplied.
My
delightful dessert of white peach sorbet, almond cream and jasmine tea pearls
is set down in front of me – decorated with edible flowers grown at farm in the
sky, DakAkker.
How: Four
courses at Renilde are €54 with the wine pairing priced at €8 per glass. Visit
boijmans.nl/en/depot/restaurant
Where to
stay
“Come with
me and you’ll be in a world of pure imagination.” Willy Wonka’s words spring to
mind as soon as guests step through the doors of Hotel Not Hotel.
Just a few
minutes walk from Rotterdam Centraal train station and very much back on ground
level, this quirky accommodation is a feast for the eyes. Bedroom doors are
hidden behind bright red bookcases and a vertical swimming pool runs through
one corridor – making it extremely Instagrammable if that’s your thing.
The hotel
group, which also has accommodation in Amsterdam, teamed up with artists to
create wacky designs for its rooms.
While it
might not be a five-star stay and some of the rooms are fairly compact, the bed
has me feeling like I’m sleeping on a cloud.
It’s
all-red restaurant/bar area – Jesús Malverde – is a great spot for a margarita
and some Mexican street food.
Doubles at
Hotel Not Hotel in high season cost from €110, room only. Visit
hotelnothotelrotterdam.com