It's sometimes a bit difficult to pin down precisely what we mean by “love of Portugal” because I hear a lot of moaning too.

I've mentioned those who might be fleeing what they deem to be unpalatable politics on their home turf in a previous Portugal News article. However, plenty of expats won't claim they understand Lisbon politics either. I certainly don't know if Portugal’s domestic politics are actually any more palatable than what goes on in the UK. Does anyone, including the politicians themselves really grasp what’s actually going on behind the rhetoric?

But, politics matter. We’ve seen firsthand the disquietude that soaring property prices have stoked in Portugal. Soaring property values that have come as a direct result of Lisbon-honed policies.

Stoking property booms inevitably create social injustices, particularly for indigenous Portuguese families, many of whom struggle to rent let alone buy. That's because so much of the housing stock has simply become unaffordable. However, inflated prices don't stop expensive housing from being snapped up by wealthy expats. It was blatantly obvious that this scenario would eventually breed an increasing degree of disquiet. I've seen this happen in North Wales, where locals have long been priced out by newcomers.

In truth, what so much of us “love” about Portugal has little to do with politics. What’s most attractive is the unique culture. We hear so much about how kind Portuguese folk are, which is clearly a draw. Then, there's the somewhat important matter of how safe it is to live here. Portugal is renowned for being an oasis of safety in an increasingly crazy world. What's not to love?

Listening to expats and visitors raving on about the many and varied attributes of Portuguese fayre has become quite entertaining because it's become so clichéd. But waxing lyrical about wonderful ‘new’ experiences is all part of that born-again vibe that most of us tend to encounter during our initial dalliances with this amazing country.

What are the downsides?

But what about cultural downsides? The ones we might encounter as we continue this Lusophile learning curve? Let's face it, even Portugal can't always be viewed exclusively through rose-tinted sun shades.

Of course, the pace of life in this beautiful country of just over ten million souls is a markedly calmer experience than living (or existing) in ram-jammed Blighty, with its nigh on 68-million inhabitants; or even that of neighboring Espanha with its 48-million souls. Portugal’s resultant and intoxicating “manãna” might appeal to some but it might equally annoy the pants off others.

Then, I keep hearing of the dreaded Portuguese bureaucracy. I haven’t experienced much of it personally (because I don't live here). But I can see how much of a bugbear it can be for those who haven't “grown-up” with it. The Portuguese seem to laugh it off and do that shrug thing that they so often do. For indigenous folk, the melee of bureaucracy seems to be neither strange nor particularly startling. It's simply the norm here.

All of us, resident or otherwise, seem to be familiar with these uniquely Portuguese characteristics. But I'm revisiting these topics because logic denotes (to me, at least) that such minor irritations might once have been deemed the cute, squidgy traits that originally drew our “expatty” attention to Portugal. After all, wouldn't it be dull if it wasn't so different?


The thing is, for many expats “of a certain age” a degree of irritability might come as standard. If we're used to things being done in a certain way (and in a timely fashion) manãna might prove difficult to fathom, especially if it's the default mode over here.

New ways of doing things often come to newcomers in dribs and drabs. But suddenly, people can find themselves engulfed by a cumulative effect where dribs and drabs build up to become a torrent. This is how things can easily morph into something much more chaotic.

I've witnessed first-hand how expats can become overwhelmed having taken their eye off the ball during the inevitable honeymoon period. It's all too easy to become starry-eyed by the change of location and a brand new lifestyle in sunnier climes.

When the honeymoon is over, Portugal’s chill factor often affords plenty of time for people to focus on what might look like “negatives”. It's only natural for folks not to want their clean slates tarnished by anything that doesn't look wholly positive. It’s only when you’re content, comfortable and firmly in the driving seat that you’ll feel in control. Yet, control might prove elusive if you're not entirely sure of how to get all the inevitable bureaucratic box-ticking done properly.

Of course, explaining and demonstrating our needs and aspirations to Portuguese bureaucrats might prove a tad awkward, especially if we're not fluent in the local lingo. Add to this, the minor perversions of local culture. Frustration might easily grow into exasperation.

Getting acclimatised

We just have to accept that things simply aren't done in quite the same way over here. Although we may have realised all this from the offset, dealing with the realities will doubtlessly prove to be a bit of an eye-opener.

You might be thinking that I'm being unduly negative here? In all honesty, I can't say that I blame you. Bear with me though.

As I suggested earlier, weirdly, these quirks were the very things that made me appreciate Portugal. I love it BECAUSE It's so unique and so different.

Us foreigners simply need to learn how to shrug it all off just like the locals do. These challenges aren't uniquely the preserve of the common or garden expat because the very same challenges are also faced on a daily basis by indigenous people too.

Truth is, the locals are acclimatised. They haven’t been thrown in at the deep end. Portugal's history reveals a fairly recent system of dictatorship and the old ways of doing things haven't altogether melted away. The carnations may have long since wilted but “the system” remains somewhat ingrained in many ways.

However much time we foreigners spend here as visitors or as Portugal’s latest residents, we must simply leave behind the rat-race ways of old. Urgency isn't a prolific component of Portuguese culture. Clearly!

Whilst it may be difficult not to take some bureaucratic anomalies personally, particularly when knock-backs come at us thick and fast. All we can do is simply dust ourselves down and chalk it down to experience. Patience is definitely a virtue!

As newcomers we're never going to change the system, it's not our business. It's a case of rolling with the punches and altering the way we think about things.

In the UK, British bureaucrats can be just as bloody-minded as their counterparts in any territory. We’re just get acclimatised to homegrown versions.

Portuguese culture remains uniquely attractive for visitors and potential residents alike. There's no doubt that Portugal’s draw has had a profound influence on the way I think about things. I'm always very happy to be here despite the occasional obstacle. After all, few worthwhile things come easily.

Author

Douglas Hughes is a UK-based writer producing general interest articles ranging from travel pieces to classic motoring. 

Douglas Hughes