Have you
ever walked down the street pinching yourself and wondering how you got there?
I live in
Lisbon, City of Light. If you question why it’s called that, Google will spit
out some statistics about 220+ days of sunshine. However, if you live here,
you’ll know it goes deeper than the holiday brochure blurb. The place positively
glows with a golden hue; the pastels of the homes leap out and scream ‘’be
happy’’, the striking black and white (albeit treacherous) pavements deliver
hours of fascination, and the architecture enchants with no two facades alike.
That’s why I pinch myself, not to mention my fascination with the intricacies
of the language, the odd whiff of dried salt cod (bacalhau), and the birds that
seem to sing all day and night.
I pinch myself because I am happy and delighted to call Lisbon my new
home. My husband, on the other hand, finds it all rather amusing that I can sit
and regal him with my latest observations and new stories. I am never at a loss
to recount some tale of the days’ happenings as we sit and try yet another new
wine over dinner. (Wine, by the way, is a whole other story, which hopefully
I’ll get to share later).
My husband is Portuguese and the first to admit that he is
re-discovering his birthplace through my eyes.
Worth every minute
Like many who move here, it has not necessarily been the easiest segue
from life in another country (in my case Mexico). The complexities of the
‘’nesting’’ experience here - renovations of a 300 hundred-year-old home,
Portuguese licensing bureaucracy, residency requirements, in addition to
growing an international business, and the relaxed Portuguese approach to
timelines, make it difficult. But, living in this beautiful country has been
worth every minute of frustration.
In the event of our four-year home renovation (everybody assumes we must
have bought a palace but sadly, it’s actually very small) we have run into some
hurdles, mainly caused by Covid-19. So as an interim we decided to buy an
even smaller place where we could lay our heads until the construction work was
finished, in Alfama.
My husband’s Lisbon (Alfacinha) friends are all a little baffled by this
choice of neighborhood, and my husband too took some serious convincing that
the area was cute and fun and might be charming with an interesting quality of
life. We bought during Covid-19, so the extent of the life in Alfama,
and the number of hours in the day when life continues at full
throttle, was not revealed in its true magnitude during lockdown! For instance,
the quaint patio at the foot of our stairs with a glorious tree that sat in
complete silence throughout 2019 is in fact home to one of the area’s most
popular open-air restaurants (Pateo 13) which encourages singing and live music
into the early hours. I see this as a bonus, and revel in the extent of the
life that unfolds on our doorstep.
A village in the city
My husband, not quite as accepting at first, has come to refer to it as
a village and now chats easily with the local ladies at the water fountain as
well as with, some hilarious Ginjinha sellers and the sardine grillers who waft
their smoke up into our apartment during the Festas of Santa Antonio.
Waking up on a Sunday morning to the melodies of the bells of Santo
Estevao is a delightful treat (unless of course the night before ended late and
some Port tasting was involved) The place is positively buzzing with new
experiences. A teeny tiny Fado house with six tables is a stone’s throw from
our window, listening to the strains of the melancholic refrain late into the
night is a first for me. I pinch myself that I am immersed in the authenticity
of a centuries-old culture that in many ways does not seem to have changed too
much. My husband laughs and tells me that when he left Lisbon 30
years ago, nobody ventured into our neighbourhood without keeping a hand on
their wallet and expecting to end the night in a fight.
It remains authentic in many ways, he says, but far improved from the
dark and dreary place it apparently once was.
Footnotes:
Alfama – Crowned by St. Georges castle, this is one of
the oldest neighbourhoods in Europe and a labyrinth of tiny houses, lookout
points, shops, restaurants, and hidden squares.
Bacalhau – The Portuguese have been enjoying a love affair
with salted cod since the 14th century, there are not only hundreds
of recipes dedicated to it, but even museums to herald its praises.
Alfacinha – People who live in Lisbon are nicknamed
‘’little lettuces’’. After having read dozens of conflicting opinions as to
why there appears to be no real explanation.
Pateo 13- Open air restaurant with opening hours dictated
by the weather. Great value for money, super friendly staff. Grilled fish and
meats during the summer. It’s super popular, expect to wait.
Ginjinha- Sweet, alcoholic, and delicious – a local
liqueur made of infused cherries in alcohol, (usually aguardente – Portuguese
Brandy) and spiced up with cinnamon or cloves. Often sold in a chocolate cup.
Sardines - A Portuguese love affair. A hot charcoal grill
and straight-from-the-ocean fresh sardines served on a slice of hearty
bread. Best eaten hot, fresh, and in the Summer.
Festas of Santo António – A riot of fun, noise, music,
parades, grilled sardines, and dancing in the streets. A party to celebrate the
patron Saint of love which lasts for weeks but is officially Mid-June.
Santo Estevão – The steps of the Church became a gathering
place for fado musicians, who are still playing their sensual music long
into the morning hours.
Port – A fortified wine produced in the North of
Portugal. There are several excellent Port tasting rooms in Alfama.
Fado- Distinctive Portuguese music with its roots in
Alfama. Fado means fate and speaks of missing, longing, and the daily life of
real people. Often accompanied by a Portuguese 12-string guitar.
With dual British and USA citizenship Lisa has
lived in England, Spain, USA, and Mexico and is now resident in Lisbon and
Algarve. Interior design entrepreneur and co-founder of Tripwix Vacation
Rentals, a Lisbon-based luxury rental and property management agency.