They come for the culture of Lisbon, with its impressive thirty-seven museums and five legendary palaces; for the rolling green vineyards of the Douro and Port wine region; for the Silver Coast with its sites like Alcobaça, Fátima, and the surfing mecca of Nazaré; for the vast expanse of the Alentejo with its cork oaks and olive trees; and, of course, for the southern playground of the Algarve.

During the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries, maritime explorations led to Portugal becoming a global commercial force attracting tradesmen, seafaring folk, and others from diverse countries. Set against the prow of a sailing ship, overlooking the Tagus River in Lisbon, and standing fifty-two meters high, the Monument to the Discoveries memorializes such Age of Discovery luminaries as Prince Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama, Pedro Álvares Cabral, Ferdinand Magellan, and King Alfonso V.

Interestingly, it’s a popular misconception that Henry the Navigator—or the Infante, as he is known to the Portuguese—personally embarked on voyages. Rather, he sponsored them and was responsible for the exploration of the west coast of Africa and the discovery of Madeira. Gold from the first enhanced the economy of Portugal (although in fact, not to a great extent until after his death), in addition to the slave trade in which he unfortunately engaged, and sugar from the second. A visit to Sagres, where Prince Henry spent most of his time after the age of fifty-five, offers a good deal more insight into his past.

Great Lisbon Earthquake

It seemed there might be a cultural setback for the country when the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1 November 1755 reduced the medieval capital to rubble. It is estimated that sixty thousand people lost their lives in Lisbon alone, which was hit by a six meter tsunami. Damage extended to the Algarve, Spain, Martinique, and Tangiers, to mention just some of the affected locales.

A horrific event, it might have been an even worse disaster than it was had it not been for the vision and ingenuity of Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo who rebuilt the city, eventually making it into one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Better known as the Marquis de Pombal, he was responsible for the first construction in the Western world of earthquake-resistant masonry buildings reinforced with a wooden framework, aptly called a “Pombaline Cage”. Many of the structures seen today in downtown Lisbon are designated “Pombaline” for this reason. In his spare time, this dynamic secretary of state and prime minister also effected the abolishment of slavery in continental Portugal and ended the Portuguese Inquisition.

Tourism

In the following century the development of infrastructure, including railway systems, enabled more northern Europeans to enjoy Portugal’s milder climate. Evidence of this can be seen today in various places around the country. One famous example is the Bairro Novo (New Block) in Figueira da Foz. In the 1860s the wealthy built exquisite vacation residences to escape the dark, cold, winters at home. Inspired by some French resorts (think Biarritz), these homes face the ocean, many with Art Nouveau and Art Deco architectural features.

In the twentieth century, while enjoying profitable relations with both the Allies and Axis powers during World War II, Prime Minister António de Oliveira Salazar deftly kept Portugal from entering the fray. (One of the finest and best researched books on this subject is Neill Lochery’s Lisbon: War in the Shadows of the City of Light, 1939-1945. In it, Lochery relates the intriguing behind-the-scenes action and characters of this phase of Lisbon’s past, and includes dozens of photographs to round out the story.) As a result, Portugal was able to experience solid economic growth when peace came, and a focus on the construction of airports and hotels emerged to accommodate a growing number of visitors.


Beginning in the 1960s, the tourism industry began to boom. In addition to European vacationers and expats, there was an uptick in arrivals from Brazil, Australia, Canada, and former African colonies, both to find work and to enjoy the country’s famous beaches, cosmopolitan cities, and charming countryside. When in the following decades—particularly after its 1986 entry into the European Union—funds were allocated specifically for tourism, Portugal was well on its way to becoming a top destination spot in the world.

It’s a trend that shows every sign of continuing as the country goes on to attract international fairs and festivals, design world class golf courses, and offer Michelin-starred restaurants, luxury hotels, and resorts to lure both vacationers and expats. Celebrities like Madonna, John Malkovich, Scarlett Johansson, and Christian Louboutin have taken the bait. A perfect example of this is the development of such areas as Melides in the municipality of Grândola on the Alentejo Coast.

If you’re feeling like you made a good decision moving to Portugal...you’re absolutely right.

Author

Native New Yorker Tricia Pimental left the US in 2012, later becoming International Living’s first Portugal Correspondent. The award-winning author and her husband, now Portuguese citizens, currently live in Coimbra.

Tricia Pimental